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Mexican marvels are within students' reach

Published: Tuesday, January 29, 2008

Updated: Monday, January 18, 2010 10:01

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Adriana Gomez-Licon

When I arrived to El Fuerte, an old colonial town in northern Sinaloa, Mexico, I was expecting everything but a first class train going to Chihuahua. Suddenly, I felt like Harry Potter at the special platform at the King's Cross station waiting for the magical train to take me to Hogwarts School of Witchcraft and Wizardry.

In a city with a population of 45,000 and paved streets, some tourists gathered in a small train station to wait for the "Chepe," one of the few Mexican passenger trains left in the country.

This train travels back and forth from Los Mochis in Sinaloa to Ciudad Chihuahua, Chihuahua. It goes through beautiful landscapes along the Sierra Tarahumara, colonial cities and indigenous communities, making a 15-minute stop for passengers to admire the world-famous Copper Canyon.

Before departing for Europe, where people travel mostly in trains, I was able to experience the best train service my country has to offer, and I was far from disappointed.

I ate breakfast prepared by juggling chefs. I slept in a comfortable seat admiring rivers and green scenery. I had occasional drinks in the train's bar and took amazing pictures from the train's windows.

As I observed tourists traveling from Germany and France, I couldn't help but feel proud of these natural marvels Mexico offers, some only accessible by train. Ferrocarril Mexicano, owner of the Chepe train, follows a journey of 408 miles of railroad tracks, 86 tunnels and 37 bridges.

After passing through Temoris, coming from the south, the journey offers beautiful views of rivers, mountains, cliffs and waterfalls. Chepe then hits Bauichivo, where people sometimes stop their trip to visit Urique Canyon, part of the bigger Copper Canyon, Cerro del Gallego scenic view, and the colonial town Cerocahui.

Other people decide to stop at Posada Barrancas so they can take an excursion to different viewpoints of the Copper Canyon.

Chepe also makes a 15-minute stop at Divisadero station, where you have to wisely chose how to use those precious minutes. I jumped off the train as soon as I could, stopped at a food stand to buy a green chile taco and kept walking straight with no distractions to the main viewpoint of Copper Canyon. I took pictures and admired one of Mexico's most popular natural marvels. I went back to shop for Tarahumara handicrafts and other souvenirs until I heard the train honking, which meant I had to go back.

The next short stop was Creel, the main town of Sierra Tarahumara where students particularly enjoy visiting. Many excursions can be taken from Creel like the Lake of Arareko, Recohwata Hot Springs and the Cusarare Waterfall. The tallest waterfall in Mexico, Basaseachi can also be visited as a full-day excursion from Creel. Some hotels include the transportation fee from the rail station to the hotel and vice versa. The Web site www.chepe.com.mx also lists some more economic options for budget travelers' accommodations.

If you get the chance to jump off the train to buy Mennonite cheese in Cuahutémoc, be sure to do so. The city has the largest Mennonite community in the world. These German-descendant religious farmers populated the city after the Mexican revolution.

My journey wrapped up at the capital, Chihuahua, where I stayed for two days. In Chihuahua you can feel a sense of Mexico's revolutionary history through its many historical sites featuring Pancho Villa and Don Miguel Hidalgo y Costilla. I visited the main sights including the baroque-style cathedral in Downtown Chihuahua. I also walked through Libertad Street, where you can find food stands, clothing, handicraft, jewelry and shoe stores. You can't miss the handicrafts market, located at Aldama Avenue between 7th and 6th streets. If you keep walking through Libertad Street you can reach Casa Chihuahua or the Federal Palace, where you can see Hidalgo's dungeon and learn a little about the Father of the Mexican Independence. After you leave Casa Chihuahua you should visit the Government Palace where you can see Hidalgo's altar, commemorating the place where he was executed and also admire Aaron Piña Mora's murals depicting Mexico's history from the Spanish conquest through the Mexican Revolution. Next to the Government Palace, you can see the Angel of Liberty, which was built in 2003. It features a laser light at the tip of the angel's sword that rotates 360 degrees.

The highlight of my night was watching a dance performance in front of the Federal Palace. A couple danced a waltz for a quinceañera and a man proposed to his girlfriend in front of the public before the show started.

I visited the Quinta Gameros mansion, which was built right before the Mexican Revolution started. It is an impressive piece of architecture located in the center of the city and open for visitors. The architectural style is a mixture of art nouveau and neoclassic. Although the Gameros family never lived there, important Mexican characters like Venustiano Carranza and Pancho Villa used the mansion for different purposes.

There are many wonders to see in Mexico outside of Ciudad Juárez that students should investigate. A bus from El Paso to Chihuahua costs about $30. Chepe's first-class express from Chihuahua to Divisadero costs about $70, but an economic class is available for about $35. Traveling to Chihuahua and taking the Chepe should be on the agenda of every student who's interested in learning more about the Mexico that is rarely depicted in mainstream media.

Adriana Licon may be reached at prospector@utep.edu.

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